Sunday Times magazine about Microbi16 Oct 2017 23:06
THE BEAUTY OF BIO
WE KNOW PROBIOTICS CAN HELP YOUR
DIGESTION BUT WHAT CAN THEY DO FOR YOUR SKIN
CLAIRE COLEMAN INVESTIGATES
With the hottest health-food books of the year invariably featuring the
word "gut" or "microbiome", we've become quite au fait with probiotics
and looking after the "good bacteria" in our stomachs. The latest figures
suggest that whether we're popping a supplement after a course of antibiotics, replacing our regular yoghurt with Activia, or even making our own kefir and kimchi, we're more pro-probiotics (sorry) than we've ever been before. But what about "good" bacteria in your skincare? Could the technology that gives us a healthy gut also be the answer to our dreams of a clear, glowing complexion? Brands such as Aurelia Probiotic Skincare and Gallinee, with its "skincare for the microbiome", think so. The mainstream brand Clinique has also jumped on the band- wagon, with its Redness Solution range that contains "probiotic technology", while Vichy, Niod and La Roche-Posay are all using probiotic and prebiotic ingredients.
Skin conditions such as rosacea and acne seem most likely to benefit from
probiotic technology, but there is increasing evidence that the secret
to anti-ageing could, in part, be down to keeping the bacteria on your skin happy. Recent research shows that the number and type of bacteria in the microbiome of healthy skin is different to that of skin affected by acne, eczema, psoriasis and other types of inflammation. One theory is that if we tinker with the microbiome, making it more like that of healthy skin, we could get rid of certain skin conditions and even slow the rate at which it ages, as that is related to inflammation, too. Only, of course, it's not that simple.
"Keeping bacteria alive in a cosmetic cream is hard," says Dr. Catherine O'Neil, senior lecturer in clinical biochemistry in the dermatological sciences research group at the University of Manchester. "Even if it weren't, we don't know
if it would be safe to apply live bacteria to potentially compromised skin." Instead, what most of these skincare companies are doing is creating extracts that have the same effects as live bacteria. "The microbiome changes the skin because molecules in the bacteria send messages to the body. But these signaling molecules can still be present in a 'dead' extract," O'Neil says. "We have found an extract that can strengthen the skinbarrier, exclude pathogens and heal skin in the same way the original bacteria can." Her findings will form the basis of products created by the SkinBio Therapeutics brand in the future.
According to Elisa Simonpietri, head of science at Vichy, that's exactly how one of the strengthening, hydrating ingredients in its Slow Age range works. It is made by fermenting a type of bacterium called Bifidobacterium longum and, though no longer live, "it still has the