RE: Boohoo's year on the naughty step20 Jun 2021 12:41
Mahmud Kamani largely kept his cool during a grilling from MPs in last December’s select committee hearing on the fast-fashion industry. But one particular question raised the hackles of Boohoo’s fiery executive chairman.
The SNP’s John McNally implied that his company was not moving fast enough to address the shortcomings that had led to worker abuses in its Leicester supply chain, detailed in a report by Alison Levitt QC. Kamani snapped. “This is an ongoing process” he shouted over McNally. “Everything in that report, plus some — plus some — is work in progress. Things are being done. Things are being fixed as we speak.”
A second report last week by Sir Brian Leveson backed up Kamani’s comments. The retired judge, appointed by Boohoo to provide independent oversight of its efforts to stamp out malpractice in its supply chain, said everyone he had met at the company was determined to address the issue. Progress was clear and the “tone from the top is both clear and real”.
Boohoo is being recognised for its response to last year’s investigation by The Sunday Times, which revealed how people in its Leicester supply chain were working in unsafe conditions for as little as £3.50 an hour. Over £1 billion was wiped off the company’s value the following day, and Next, Asos and Zalando all removed Boohoo products from their websites. Aberdeen Standard, one of the biggest investors, dumped its shares over Boohoo’s “inadequate” initial response.
Boohoo commissioned an independent review by Levitt, which found that management was aware of “very serious” issues over the treatment of factory workers in Leicester, where it sourced about 40 per cent of its clothes. Levitt’s report painted a picture of a senior team who felt responsible only on a superficial level.
Boohoo has since cut ties with dozens of Leicester factories that fell short of its new, higher standards, and published the list of the 54 it continues to use. John Lyttle, its chief executive, hired former Primark colleague Andrew Reaney to become Boohoo’s director of responsible sourcing.
“They have faced the issues head on. Mahmud is a pragmatist and he understands things have to change. There is still more to do but the early signs are positive,” said Dan Nickols at Jupiter, Boohoo’s biggest institutional shareholder.
Not everyone is convinced. The campaign group Labour Behind The Label said that Boohoo’s response pushed blame down to errant factory owners while failing to acknowledge that its rock-bottom prices were a big contributor to labour abuses.
“Nothing has changed for workers in Leicester,” said Dominique Muller from Labour Behind The Label. “Many workers still receive wages well under the minimum wage — that prices being asked of suppliers fail to cover the legal wage costs.”